Extra-long post today... hope you enjoy it!
So Mikey ended up arriving about 17 hours later than I had expected at the Kurikoma-kogen shinkansen station instead of Sendai airport. I wished that we could have spent that time together too but at least I was spared an extra hour of driving... I guess. We met up around noon on August 3rd and Mikey claimed to not be too hungry so we decided to drive to my place and eat lunch at one of the little restaurants in Minamisanriku. Mikey was impressed by my driving skills (and my new license) and I tried to point out interesting sites to him along the way. The rice paddies were an amazing shade of light-green and the sun was bright (it was very humid though so I was forced to keep the windows closed and the AC on).
When we arrived in Minamisanriku I showed Mikey what progress has been made (though nowadays most areas contain leftover building foundations half covered with summer weeds and sea grass). Some new non-temporary buildings are in the process of being built but there is still no grocery store in town. The hospital, which had been heavily damaged and was not in use after the tsunami, was also torn down recently leaving an open space a bit closer to the coast. After the quick tour I brought Mikey to the apartment and showed him around there too. I had thoroughly cleaned the kitchen area and my bedroom so I was pretty proud of myself (though my brother probably knew that it's not usually that neat). Since I wanted Mikey to stretch his legs after the long flight we decided to walk to one of the local restaurants down the mountain.
Along the way we saw summer flowers like hydrangea (some of which were an amazing shade of purple-blue while others were practically white), sunflowers, and white lilies that I didn't know the name of so I took a picture, apparently they are
Yamayuri ("mountain lilies" - makes sense).
I convinced Mikey to have a big bowl of fresh miso ramen, which maybe wasn't the best idea since it's served hot and he was very sweaty by the time he finished it... I also taught him one of the most important Japanese words that I know, "
nanika." I used it at the restaurant while ordering when I didn't know how to say some kanji in the dish's name. It was a type of miso ramen but since I couldn't read the first kanji I told the waitress that Mikey would have a
nanika miso ramen while pointing to it on the menu.
Nanika (or
nantoka) just means "something." Luckily the waitress understood! After lunch we went back up to my place and relaxed in the AC for awhile. We also played one of our favorite video games, Super Smash Bros. Brawl. After a few rounds though Mikey was starting to look very tired due to jet lag. He ended up taking a nap but woke up after about an hour and a half to have some pasta for dinner. During that time I tried to organize what I wanted to pack but I ended up doing most of the packing for our trip on the morning of the 4th anyway. Some of the most useful items I packed were my
printed maps and information about the areas that we would be visiting and my compass. Oftentimes my Google Maps app on my US iPhone runs very slowly so having the non-virtual tools was handy. I also packed a pair of
happi (summer festival clothes) just in case.
Anyway, on the 4th at around noon we headed back to the train station and traveled from Kurikoma-kogen station in Miyagi to Himeji station in Hyogo (a 1060 km ~660 mile journey that lasted about 6.5 hours). On the way we slept, ate leftover pasta for lunch, and Mikey played an old GameBoy game that he bought with him -
Pokemon Blue - classic!
We finally arrived in Himeji (known for its castle which is unfortunately undergoing external renovation at the moment) around 8 PM that evening and got off the train to find that there was a festival going on near the castle! The festival was fittingly called the
Oshiro matsuri (castle festival) and involved large groups of dancers dressed in
yukata, some with fans or other props. There were also large drums being played, intricate paper lanterns, and booths selling festival food. Mikey and I thought it would be a good chance to wear our
happi but we decided to check-in and drop our luggage off at the guesthouse first. In the end we went with just our regular clothes since the festival only went until 10 PM and we wanted to catch the end of it. Mikey got a candy apple and I got some little doughnut-like treats that were glazed in honey.
The guesthouse we stayed at was very traditional- its guests slept on futons on the floor, the building was old and built mostly of wood, there were tons of paper-covered doors, and there was no AC. It was a hot and humid night which made it hard to get comfortable but I was tired from traveling so I was able to bear with it.
On the 5th we took the shinkansen down to Hiroshima. Actually the reason we stayed in Himeji in the first place was that there
weren't any hostels with vacancies in Hiroshima due to the August 6th Peace Ceremony
at the Peace Memorial Park. We arrived around 11 AM and took the tram to the Genbaku Dome (A-bomb dome) area.
The Genbaku Dome, which was almost directly at the atomic bomb blast hypocenter.
Next we went to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (the long rectangular building in the background) and spent a couple of hours learning about Hiroshima before and after
the bomb. In this photo one can also see the white tents set up for the 2012 Peace Ceremony and the
Peace Flame (center) which will burn until there are no nuclear weapons in the world.
The museum was very informative and we could tell that an effort had been made to tell the story from all sides. For example, the museum had an area explaining that about 20,000 of the victims killed were Koreans who were being used as forced laborers. While there I was approached by a Japanese high school student who asked if she could interview me (in English luckily). She asked me whether I had learned about Hiroshima in school so I told her that I officially learned about it in 6th grade (when my class had read the story of
Sadako Sasaki). She also asked me what my idea of peace was and I told her something along the lines of 'people being able to do what they want without fear of being injured or killed.'
I read that many of the victims of the bomb were middle school and high school students
who were helping to build outdoor firewalls in case of fire bombing. A
large section of the museum showed items recovered from students after the blast such
as burned school uniforms, metal lunch boxes filled with ashes from burned food, and a couple of watches stopped at 8:15. Stone steps originally from outside of a bank had been reconstructed inside the museum and a plaque next to it pointed out a dark gray shadow where someone had been sitting before dying in the flames after the bomb. There were also pictures of the city taken after the destruction when there were virtually no standing buildings and I couldn't help but notice the similarities between Hiroshima then and Minamisanriku now...
Some of Mikey's favorite parts of the museum were the walls covered with Letters of Protest. These letters are sent from the mayor of Hiroshima to the leader of any country found to have conducted a nuclear test urging them to stop nuclear weapon development and testing. When I visited the museum there were 599 copies of the letters in total with the most recent two (from January 2012) addressed to President Obama.
After the museum we headed over to Mazda Stadium to see a baseball game between the Hiroshima Carp and Osaka Hanshin Tigers. Seriously though, in real life which would win?
Mikey and I decided to root for the Carp (mostly because of their funny name). By the way, is it just me or does the 'C' on the baseball cap look suspiciously like the one from the Cincinnati Reds?
I had obtained some pretty good seats, and they were very cheap compared to any Red Sox game I've gone to, only 2,000 yen apiece (about $25)!
Here's the view from our seats. It was a nice outdoor stadium and a pleasant evening, though it did drizzle a bit at first.
In honor of the Peace Ceremony, all of the baseball fans were given green or red paper upon entering the stadium. In between innings they played John Lennon's "Imagine" and told us to practice waving the paper back and forth. I believe it was before the 6th inning that they played a longer segment of the song and it was pretty moving to see everyone participating.
A clip of everyone waving their paper in time with the song.
I had heard that Japanese baseball games had a different feeling from US ones and it was definitely true. It was very... loud during the game since one group of fans or the other was always chanting and cheering on their team while they were batting. As for the game-play, my brother said that there was a lot more bunting than he was used to seeing.
Before the Carp came up to
bat in the 7th inning, the fans sang their... theme song I guess you'd
call it, and released balloons into the air. It was really cool!
The Carp ended up winning the game, so it was a very fun night overall.
Next time, more about Himeji and possibly even Kyoto!